Good photographs allow specialists to identify, authenticate, and value items accurately before they are sent. A clear set of photographs can produce a reliable preliminary estimate that saves both time and postage. Poor photographs mean guesswork — and guesswork leads to imprecise valuations.
This guide explains exactly what to photograph for each type of item, and how to take clear photographs with a smartphone without specialist equipment.
General principles that apply to everything
Use natural daylight — position near a window, not in direct sunlight which creates harsh shadows.
Use camera flash — it washes out surface detail, obscures hallmarks, and creates blown-out highlights on metal.
Use a plain, neutral background — white paper or a grey cloth is ideal. Clutter in the background is distracting.
Photograph on patterned surfaces or carpet — makes edge detail impossible to see clearly.
Enable macro mode on your smartphone (the flower/tulip icon) for close-up detail shots of hallmarks and markings.
Zoom in digitally — this reduces resolution. Move the phone closer instead and let macro mode focus.
Steady the phone — rest your elbows on a table, or use a surface to stabilise for close-up shots.
Send blurry photographs — tap the screen to focus on the subject before taking the shot.
Photographing watches
Watches require the most detailed photography of any valuation item. Here are the shots that allow accurate specialist assessment:
- Dial — straight onThe watch lying flat, dial facing up. Camera directly above, parallel to the dial. Shows brand, model, any text on the dial, and condition. Ensure the whole dial is sharp.
- CasebackThe watch turned over, caseback facing up. Captures hallmarks, reference and serial numbers (where engraved on the caseback), and any engravings. Critical for gold identification.
- Between the lugs at 12 o'clockFor Rolex: the reference number is engraved between the lugs at the 12 o'clock position — requires removing the bracelet or strap. Hold in angled light to read the engraving. This photograph identifies the specific reference.
- Between the lugs at 6 o'clockFor Rolex: the serial number is at the 6 o'clock lug position. For most watches, serial numbers are on the caseback — but this shot is useful for Rolex-specific identification.
- Side profile — crown sideThe watch from its side, showing the crown and any pushers. Reveals case thickness, crown type, and any case markings on the middle band.
- Display caseback (if present)If the watch has a display caseback, photograph the movement through it. Shows the calibre and its condition — invaluable for pocket watches and mechanical dress watches.
- Box and papersIf original boxes, guarantee cards, or certificates are present, photograph them flat, showing all text. Both inside and outside of the box.
Photographing jewellery
- Overall viewThe piece lying flat on a white surface, photograph from directly above. Shows the overall design, condition, and scale.
- HallmarksThe most important photograph for jewellery. British hallmarks are typically stamped on a clasp, shank, or inner surface. Use macro mode and angled lighting — hold the piece near a window and angle it so the stamp catches the light. This reveals the metal type, assay office, and date letter.
- Maker's mark or signatureIf the piece has a maker's mark or is signed (Cartier, Tiffany, etc.), photograph it in the same way as hallmarks — macro mode, angled light to reveal the stamped or engraved text.
- Stone detailFor diamond or gemstone pieces, a close-up of the main stone(s) showing their setting, cut, and condition. Photograph in diffused natural light — don't use flash as it obscures stone clarity.
- Clasp or fasteningFor bracelets and necklaces, photograph the clasp — this is often where hallmarks and maker's marks are found.
Photographing coins
- Obverse (front — portrait side)Lay the coin flat, camera directly above, natural light. Shows the ruler's portrait, the legend around the rim, and the date.
- Reverse (back)The opposite side, same setup. Shows the denomination, design, and any mintmark.
- Edge (for gold coins)Hold the coin on its edge and photograph — reveals edge milling and any edge inscription. Particularly important for sovereigns and other gold coins.
- Album or folder overviewFor collections: photograph each page of the album flat, in good light. Then individual close-up shots of any significant individual coins. This establishes the scope and composition of the collection before individual pieces are assessed.
For complex or valuable items — particularly pocket watches with significant movements, antique jewellery with unmarked gems, or coins with subtle variety differences — a photograph provides a starting point but physical assessment is necessary for a firm valuation. We will tell you if the preliminary photos suggest physical assessment is needed.
Yes — modern smartphone cameras are excellent for valuation photography. The key is technique, not equipment: natural light, macro mode for close-ups, a stable position, and a neutral background. A 48-megapixel smartphone camera in good light produces photographs that allow detailed specialist assessment.
Enable macro mode on your smartphone and get as close as the camera will focus while remaining sharp. Angle a bright light source (window light or a lamp without a shade) across the hallmark at a low angle — this "raking light" causes stamped marks to cast shadows, making them readable. If the hallmark is still too small to read in a photograph, describe what you can see and our specialists will advise whether physical assessment is needed.
More is better for preliminary assessment. For a single watch, 6–8 photographs covering all the views above is ideal. For a collection of 10 watches, a few overall shots showing all watches plus individual shots of anything you think may be significant. For jewellery, 4–6 photos per piece including the hallmark. For coins, obverse and reverse for each significant coin.